7 days, 4 states, 3500 odd kms, I never thought I could make it that far.
An absurdly early 4am alarm brings me out of a restless dream. A cold shower and equally cold breakfast later, I've geared up and fitted my saddle bags on my bike. It's time to ride. This will be my modus operandi for the next 7 days, the long awaited adventure has begun.
Warming up the tires, I tear out of the city. It's cold but that's a relief, the day ahead wont be so forgiving. An hour later - sunrise. It urges me on and instills more purpose in the journey I have to make. 600kms to Bangalore.
As the day progresses the summer sun shows no mercy, temperatures reach 46 degrees centigrade making living in a biker jacket impossible. As the miles fall away and numerous hamlets fly past, I can't help but remind myself "this is just day one", and a weird sense of satisfaction creeps in. Despite the weather and the enormity of the journey ahead, no biker ever complains of being given 7 days to ride.
8 scorching hours and two state borders later, Bangalore. An evening of meeting old friends and family. Some friendships amaze me, you can go years without talking and pick up as if you never missed a beat. There are some relationships to be grateful for after all. A good dinner, much needed rest and the thought "I never thought I'd make it this far".
Day 2: An early exit from Bangalore, before rush hour traffic can prevent it. I cruise by Mysore in a couple of hours, a city of a thousand memories, dark storm clouds are gathering and heading my way.
I don't stop but pick up the pace, it makes sense to cover as much distance as possible before the inevitable strikes. And then, as I enter the Bandipur forests - rain.
Lashing out in torrents, cold, hard and unforgiving. You are not supposed to stop in a Tiger reserve, but I don't have a choice. I pull up under the biggest tree i find and get my rain gear on myself and my luggage, and before attracting the attention of a wild animal or a forest guard, speed off through the downpour.
Couple of hours later, the deluge is not relenting, and has made visibility low and progress terribly slow.
As I pass my ever favorite hamlet of Masinagudi, something really hard strikes the visor of my helmet amidst the rain. Surprised I try to gather my wits to understand what just happened, when more hard projectiles land on me and the bike, immediately I understand - hail!
I pull up at a shop and take shelter under a thin tin roof till the storm passes. When there is a reprieve I get a view of the mountains I need to climb today - the awe imposing Nilgiris.
As I begin to climb the mountain roads, I get a grim reminder of why these are one of the most dangerous roads in south India, especially when wet.
A lot of careful riding and 36 hairpin bends later, I arrive at sundown at the beautiful hamlet of Kotagiri, very close to the peak of the Nilgiris. (8.5k feet above sea level)
That night I had a visitor in the guest house who wanted to claim my bed as his own, after unceremoniously sending him on his way, I sleep like a log thankful that despite the elements, I made it this far.
Day 3: No destination today, but a lot of distance to cover. I spend the day riding round the Nilgiris. For those of you who haven't visited, The Nigiris (blue mountains), are a range of mountains forming a part of the Western Ghats which is located in the western part of Tamil Nadu state at the junction of Karnataka and Kerala states in Southern India. At least 24 of the Nilgiri mountains's peak above 2,000 metres (6,600 ft). They cover 2500square kilometers and are full of forests and tea estates.
I ride through the blue mountains exploring and being rewarded by beautiful views and amazing weather. Today I also do a 3 hour trek to Kodanad peak, which commands a sprawling view of 3 states on the plains beneath. As I gain the peak and the view, I stand breathless on the edge and wonder how I made it this far.
Day 4: The descent back to Masinagudi. Going downhill is always more risky than climbing uphill. I carefully navigate steep wet slopes from last nights rain. The treacherous hair pin bends being the most exciting. The rain last night has been worse than I imagined. Landslides cause roadblocks and detours, but I gain the plains and Masinagudi by early afternoon.
The day is spent catching up with an old forest ranger buddy, and hearing tales of the forest I have loved ever since I first set eyes on it 25years ago. I have come back every year ever since. We trek deep into the jungles of Mudumalai and Bandipur, sighting various wildlife along the way. It is always a relief to find this pristine wilderness abounding with life. Our stories go on around a campfire till late in the night and I have never felt more at home, ever more grateful that I made it this far.
Day 5: I wake up to a very vaguely familiar, not very distant sound long before dawn. A growl which feels like it reverberates in my bones. Trying to make out what It could be I wake my friend. The forest ranger recognizes it instantly- the call of a leopard, just outside the forest guest house.
Leopards are highly elusive and as stealthy as a shadow, so it is surprising that the predator is going about announcing his presence. Slipping on our jungle vestment and carrying heavy flashlights we stalk out into the dark night and dense scrub. With the roars before us we scurry along the thin jungle paths as noiselessly as we can after it. The elusive creature always a furlong ahead. We trek through sunrise and 3 hours later finally track the big cat to a ledge of a hill, and what a reward awaits us! Not one but a pair of leopards appear on the ledge above us! He was calling for her!
Leopards are more solitary than elusive, so seeing one is rare enough, but seeing a pair is a once in a lifetime opportunity and treat!
Masinagudi, Mudumalai and Bandipur are always tough places to bid adieu to, but after lunch I pack my gear and set course for Bangalore, the ride is uneventful and reflective of memories of the jungle I've loved over the years. I reach Bangalore in time for a nice dinner, grateful for the memories and that I could make it thus far.
Day 6: The plan was to ride home, but I have a couple of days of leave left and a longing for the sea. I leave Bangalore at 5 am and instead of taking the Hyderabad exit take the Vellore road. 5 hours and 350kms later I am in Chennai.
I spend the day with my favorite godson and visit Cove Long beach. As always the ocean has its calming and tranquil effect on me, and I begin to feel a sense of completeness for my trip. The bike has handled excellently so far without a single niggle. I have visited a hill station, a forest and a beach. It is now time to go home. I prepare the bike for the longest ride I am to make in a day and sleep very well, I have already covered 4 states and a lot of south India, I never thought I'd make it this far.
Day 7: Another 5 am start, with a 700 km journey ahead of me. By 7am i begin to lose focus, the 7 days of riding begins to tell on my body. At Sullurpetta i get off the expressway and head for Sriharikota, a beautiful ride piercing the backwaters of the Indian Ocean, to India's only space rocket launching facility. I take a long break, soak up the scenery, have some refreshments and gather courage for the journey ahead.
The route from Nellore to Ongole is under repair, and slows me down considerably with constant detours, but After Ongole, I conquer the 250 kms between Adanki and Narketpally in about 2 hours, getting back on track to make Hyderabad by sun down. The 100 kms from Narketpally to Hyderabad is the hardest, as is always with a long journey, the thought of getting back to the routine after a week of pure bliss doesn't help. I drag myself back home, riding almost 800kms on the last day. Both the bike and me are beat, and the scorching heat has really taken a toll on the last day.
But the satisfaction I have isn't like any I experienced recently. Solo, I have made 3500kms in 7 days, through 4 states, through all the elements, and seen the places and the people I wanted to see. I remember my last thought before I drift into a fatigued slumber to be
"I can't believe that I made it this far" !!!
